Vyshyvanka is a symbol of beauty, the connection of generations and the indomitability of Ukrainians

On May 16, Ukraine and Ukrainian diasporas all over the world celebrate Vyshyvanka Day – a holiday that preserves the traditions of Ukrainian national clothing. Its main attribute is an embroidered shirt, which is considered a symbol of identification of the Ukrainian people.

Vysyvanka for Ukrainians is a real national shrine, it symbolizes the family memory of many generations, which is not interrupted by the ages. For many centuries, the vyshyvanka served as a talisman against evil for Ukrainians, people believe that it is endowed with great power and is capable of working miracles. People always encode their “happiness and destiny, life and will” in national dress, as it is said in ritual folk songs. For many centuries, the vyshyvanka has been carrying spiritual wealth, wisdom and the traditional connection of many generations, which is not interrupted by the ages.

The year 2022 became special for this holiday – after the beginning of the full-scale invasion of Russia into Ukraine, the embroidery turned into a powerful symbol of unity, stability and indomitability of the Ukrainian people. Leaders of the state and Ukrainian military proudly wear vyshyvankas to official events and to the front.

Yuliya Khomenko, a journalist of IA “FAKT” researched the evolution of the vyshyvanka: from an ancient symbol to a modern trend.

History of Vyshyvanka Day

The history of Ukrainian embroidery goes back centuries. Archaeological findings indicate that embroidered clothes were worn on the territory of Ukraine as early as the 6th century. Over time, embroidery became an integral part of Ukrainian culture, symbolizing beauty, originality and national identity. Traditionally, Vyshyvanka women wore both everyday and festive clothes. Their patterns and colors had a deep meaning, protecting the wearer and telling about his social status, marital status and place of residence. The secrets of embroidery were passed down from generation to generation, because it was not just a craft, but a real art. Over time, embroidery evolved, new execution techniques, patterns and colors appeared. It became not only an element of folk clothing, but also used for decorative purposes. Towels, tablecloths, pillows and other household items were decorated with embroideries.

This holiday appeared in 2006 as a flash mob in social networks, quickly became all-Ukrainian, and later international. Despite its centuries-old history, vyshyvanka is fashionable and very stylish. There is no longer any national clothing that would fit into modernity as well as our vyshyvanka. In total, there are about two hundred different embroidery techniques and more than a hundred embroidery stitches in Ukraine. Each of our regions has not only its own embroidery technique, but also a theme of ornamentation, traditional colors and details.

Borshchi embroidery is recognized as one of the most original types of embroidery – shirts richly embroidered with black threads. In the amazing beauty of Borshchiv embroidery, fragments of Trypil culture are engraved. Another popular type is polychrome or multi-colored embroidery, formerly worn by residents of the Carpathians, Transcarpathia, Bukovyna, and Hutsul region. However, Poltava vyshyvanka is considered one of the most difficult – white on white. The inspiration for such embroidery was nature: earlier, women embroidered mainly in winter, when there was no work in the garden.

In the 20th century, embroidery went through periods of decline and revival. In Soviet times, its mass production was limited, and wearing in public places was not encouraged. However, Ukrainians preserved their traditions, passing embroidered shirts from generation to generation.

With the restoration of Ukraine’s independence, embroidery once again became one of the symbols of national identity. They began to wear it not only on holidays, but also in everyday life. In 2006, the Day of Vyshyvanka was started. This flash mob, which began with the initiative of Lesia Voronyuk, a student of the Chernivtsi National University, quickly turned into an all-Ukrainian and then an international holiday. Every year on May 16, millions of people around the world wear embroidered shirts to demonstrate their unity and love for Ukraine.

Vyshyvanka during the war

Since 2014, Ukrainian embroidery has acquired a new, deeper meaning. It has become not just traditional clothing, but also a symbol of Ukrainian strength, unity and indomitability. Wearing a vyshyvanka in the occupied territories is a brave act, because it means publicly declaring one’s pro-Ukrainian position. For many people, the vyshyvanka became a talisman that gave them strength and faith in a better future. Since the beginning of February 2022, the embroidery has become even more our national symbol.

Vyshyvanka in a military wardrobe

The Ukrainian military also keeps up with the popular trend of “Wearing an embroidered shirt”, they often show off brand new embroidered shirts on social networks. However, the patterns and color of the embroidered shirt is different from the traditional one. They choose embroidered combat shirts, which are professionally called ubaks (short for Under Body Armor Combat Shirt) or body armor shirts. For example, Dmytro “Orest” Kozatskyi, Ptashka and Pavlo Vyshebaba repeatedly appeared in shirts from the VyshivUbaks brand. This brand managed to combine the symbolism of Ukrainian embroidery with the needs of the military and practicality. In particular, the Fighters of the 27th Pechersk Brigade of the National Guard organized a whole photo session dedicated to the Ukrainian Vyshyvanka. In each picture, they combined their military uniforms, weapons and other equipment together with national embroidery.

Photo: 118th separate territorial defense brigade

“Our history and identity have been embroidered on our national shirts for centuries. This is how Ukrainian embroidery came about. We preserve the age-old traditions of wearing ethnic clothing in order to preserve historical memory and folk values. After all, remembering this, we will not allow the enemy to destroy us and our unity, we will not allow Ukraine and its people to be destroyed“, say the fighters of the 27th Pechersk Brigade.

In the Mykolaiv Oblast, servicemen, dressed in both uniforms and embroidered jackets, took pictures on the ruins of buildings destroyed by the occupiers. As a symbol of Ukrainian indomitability and victory, they hold the flag in their hands.

“Vyshyvanka is a talisman of every Ukrainian, which gives strength. We are strong, free, independent and indomitable. We are all different, but we are united by a common goal and the most cherished desire for our victory.”, – note the military.

Military personnel who are fighting the Russians at the front lines also shared their thoughts on the “FACT” embroidery of IA.

“When I wear an embroidered shirt, I feel the strength of my ancestors, the strength of my people. It gives me the strength to go on and fight for our land” , – Oleg, a military man.

“Vyshyvanka is a charm that protects me from enemy bullets“, – Anastasia, fighting since 2014.

“I wear the embroidered shirt with pride, because it is a symbol of what I fight for. This is a symbol of our victory“, – Vadim, a serviceman of the 95th brigade.

“Vysyvanka is unity. It unites us, Ukrainians, wherever we are. It gives us a sense of togetherness and unity”, – Marina, combat medic.

“I will always wear an embroidered shirt as a symbol of our indomitableness and our victory.”, – shares Konstantin.

Embroidered shirts are becoming a trend for Ukrainian designers

Sumy-based designer Svitlana Volyk created a collection of embroidery called “Embroidery of war”, where threads depict symbols of stability and unity of Ukrainians. “Bayraktary” combat drones, wheat fields and cotton flowers come to life in the embroidered ornaments. These are not just patterns, they are symbols of struggle, work and belief in victory.

“There were attacks on my production, there were moments when my soul was torn,” – admits Svetlana.

Thanks to her creativity, she managed to express her emotions and show the world the resilience of the Ukrainian spirit.
Every embroidery in the collection is unique. Some of them have a special history. For example, the embroidery with the image of “Bayraktar” became possible thanks to the joint efforts and donations of Ukrainians. Svetlana is proud that her works resonate in people’s hearts. Her embroidered shirts are worn not only by Sumy residents, but also by soldiers at the front.

Ukrainian traditional shirts can be seen at world fashion shows or in the works of famous designers. In particular, the famous Italian brand Etro was one of the first to use Ukrainian motifs in its collections. In 2015, Gucci released a collection of accessories, which featured bags, belts and shoes with embroidery inspired by Ukrainian motifs. In the following 2016, Valentino presented a haute couture collection, which featured dresses with embroidery reminiscent of traditional Ukrainian embroidery from the Poltava region. Dolce and Gabanna created a project to support family values, the face of which was chosen to be a family from Ukraine in national dress.

Marriage in embroidery

The tendency to get married in vyshyvanka is gaining momentum throughout Ukraine. According to the data of the Zhytomyr RACS, every second couple who gets married chooses authentic Ukrainian clothes for the ceremony instead of traditional white dresses and suits.

“Ukrainian designers have put a lot of effort into creating millions of options for wedding dresses with embroidery. This is not just fashion, it is a testimony of love for one’s country and its traditions“, – says Oksana Malko, a representative of Zhytomyr RATS.

Military people who get married are more likely to choose Vyshyvanka than civilian couples. This can be explained by the desire to emphasize one’s unity with the people and the country during the war.

“It was important for me to get married in Vyshyvanka to show my pride for Ukraine and my loyalty to it. It was a special day and I will never forget it.”, – says military officer Mykhailo, who recently got married.

The new trend of getting married in embroidered dresses is not only a tribute to fashion, but also evidence that Ukrainian culture is alive and thriving.

Ukrainian shirt in the lens of modern photographers

Indeed, photos of Ukrainians in embroidered dresses against the background of picturesque landscapes have become very popular. These images emphasize the beauty of Ukrainian nature and the unity of man with it. Photos in embroidered shirts against the background of buildings destroyed by the war are a powerful image that carries a deep meaning. It symbolizes the resilience of the Ukrainian people, their indomitability in the face of the enemy and faith in victory.

Recently, the journalist of IA “FACT” Yulia Khomenko held her own photo exhibition in Zhytomyr region, where models in embroidered dresses posed against the background of destroyed buildings.

These photos are not only impressive, but also make you think, give a feeling of unity with those who suffered from the war. Photos of embroidered women, which are published on social networks, at photo exhibitions and in the mass media, play an important role in popularizing Ukrainian culture and uniting people.

Vyshyvanka Day is celebrated in 60 countries. It is interesting, but it turns out that flash mobs in embroidered dresses and marches are popular not only in Ukraine, but also in 60 countries where the Ukrainian diaspora is present. Vyshyvanka is not just a piece of clothing, it is a symbol of our national pride and unity.